ASPARAGUS [Asparagus officinalis]

In my city garden, I only had a 20 foot row of asparagus. It was just enough to snack on while working in the garden, (yes, I love crunching away at it raw!) and to MAYBE get one or two meals out of it. On this farm I have 400 feet of it for the market garden. Pretty sure it will be enough.

I have both green, variety Millenial, and purple, variety Purple Passion, at JCFS. I will be offering crowns each spring for the nursery and fresh cut seasonally for the farm market and CSA. 

CulinarY

Asparagus is a member of the lily family. It is high in folate, potassium, vitamin A, vitamin C, folic acid and plant fiber. It may help lower blood pressure, can act as a prebiotic and may help relieve inflammatory conditions. High in purines, which increase the production of uric acid, asparagus can increase issues with kidney stones and gout. 

If you are allergic to garlic and chives, you may be allergic to asparagus, too. 

An 80g (about 5 spears) portion of asparagus (boiled) provides:

2.7g protein
0.6g fat
1.1g carbohydrates
1.5g fibre
176mg potassium
311mcg carotene
138mcg folate
8mg vitamin C

Some people comment that asparagus has a strong smell. Its asparaguisic acid, when broken down through cooking, creates sulphur containing compounds, causing the smell.

Asparagus freezes well. 

GrowinG

Asparagus is one of those amazing early-season vegetables that herald the gardening season is upon us. It is a perennial vegetable and crowns can produce for 10 or more years. The spears are the immature ferns.

Asparagus is dioecious, meaning it has both male and female plants. Male types produce more spears than female plants do. The female plant will produce the red berries with seeds. 

Since asparagus is long-lived, doing your bed up right in the beginning is important. They like a well-drained and light, sandy soil. They hate competition, so keeping your bed weed free is important. They should not be rotated into a bed that previously had onion, chive or another member of the same family to reduce the chance of disease spread. 

Purple Passion produces big spears, so keeping spacing to only 8 inches between crowns will keep the size restrained to produce smaller spears. Purple Passion is sweeter than the green varieties. Green varieties should be spaced 12-18 inches apart. For both, rows should be at least 5 feet apart to allow the ferns the space they need and to ensure proper spear size.

Check your soil before planting and add lime as needed to achieve a ph level of 6.5-7.0. Dig a 6 inch deep furrow and add an inch of compost to the bottom. Add an inch of soil. Crowns should be spread out over a cone of soil with 2 inches of soil over the top of the crown. As they grow and spears emerge the first year, soil should be continued to be piled on them so they just peak through until it is about 6 inches deep over the crown.

New asparagus plantings need good irrigation for the first two or three seasons. Drought stress can reduce yields. Organic mulches such as leaves, grass clippings, or straw can be applied 4-6 inches deep to help suppress weeds. My favorite is comfrey cuttings.

Asparagus beetles are their nemesis, but cutworms, grasshoppers and aphids are also a danger. Crown rot can be caused by overharvesting, growing in acidic or waterlogged soils and excessive pet pressure. Needle blight creates rust colored ovals on the ferns and causes the ferns to die. 

Do not harvest the first year. The 2nd year after planting, asparagus can be harvested for 2 weeks. Harvest spears that are as thick as a #2 pencil or larger every 2-3 days. Leave the spindly ones and do not over harvest. The ferns store the energy for the next year's growth. Three years after planting you can harvest for 5-8 weeks. Yields will increase each year if the plant is managed properly.

Harvest in the morning by snapping the spear off when around 7 inches high and the spear tip is still tight. Using a knife can spread disease between plants. Harvest spears before a predicted freeze. Harvested spears need to be placed in cold water to flash chill, drained and immediately refrigerated to maintain quality. The season is usually mid-April until the first of June.

Do not cut back ferns until they are thoroughly dead. Cut and burn to reduce disease and pest issues. Mulching over winter can help protect the crowns.

FinaL

Some people do not like asparagus. I KNOW. Weirdos. It's one of my spring time culinary joys. I eagerly anticipate the spears poking up their little heads. The adult gardner's version of anticipating Santa's arrival. It's a very similar feeling when you see that first "present." 

Asparagus is one of those plants that needs babied it's first couple of years, and then is off and running. They take up a lot of bed space, produce for a short time (although very well), and are really only able to be frozen for storage, not canned. Again, taking up valuable space. But are they worth it? Absolutely!!

sPECS

Asparagus officinalis

Type: Perennial

Uses: Culinary vegetable

Hardiness Zone:

Days to Maturity: 3 years from planting

Plant out: In spring as soon as soil can be worked or fall

Crown Prep: Keep in fridge until ready to plant

Crown Depth: 2 inches to start, 6 inches after growth

Growing Temp: 50 degrees

Height: 4 feet

Spacing: 12-18 inches green, 8 inches purple

Spread: 24 inches

Sunlight: Full sun

Water Requirements: Well irrigated first 3 years, drought tolerant after 3 years

Soil Quality: Well drained, loose, sandy

Soil Chemistry: Slightly acidic 6.5-7.0 pH

Crop Rotation: Do not plant where other allium and onions have been planted for the last year, preferably last 3 years

Fertilize: Top dress lightly with compost in spring, add nitrogen in spring

Growth Rate: Quick to grow, slow to mature

Bloomtime: Summer

Flowers: Berries just seem to appear. There must be flowers, but I've never noticed them.

Leaf color: Leaf green

Critter Attractant: None

Attracts: Rabbits, squirrels and other animals will eat new shoots 
Critter Resistant: Listed as deer resistant, but they will eat it if nothing better is around, especially new shoots

Harvest: Spears over pencil size for 2 weeks at 2 years after planting, 5-7 weeks 3 years of planting and beyond

Pruning: Remove spent ferns by early spring; remove and burn to reduce disease

Mulch: Mulch 6-8 inches with straw, leaves, grass clippings to reduce weeds and offer protection in winter

Pests: Asparagus beetle, aphids, grasshopper, cutworms

Diseases: Crown rot, needle blight

Reseeds: Yes, if you have female plants

Propagation: Crowns from new growth, seed

Storage: For long-term storage, store crowns in a dark room as close to 32F as possible

Preservation: Freeze for long-term storage

Garden Style: Vegetable

Companions: Not garlic, it can stunt asparagus

Allergy Potential: Yes, people with allium allergies are allergic to onions, shallots, garlic

Cullinary Use: Side vegetable

Medicinal: Vitamins, reduce inflammation

https://www.bbcgoodfood.com/howto/guide/health-benefits-asparagus

https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/g6405

CALENDULA Calendula officinalis

WARNING: Not for internal use by pregnant women; may cause contact dermatitis in those allergic to ragweed.

Calendula has become one of
my favorite medicinal herbs, flower and pollinator garden superstars, and edible flowers. Their prolific sunny flowers are a dramatic statement in any garden setting. 

Few things sooth skin irritation like a calendula salve. 

Research proves marigold species as beneficial in lowering plant-parasitic nematodes in soil.

Growing

As with marigolds, they are one of the easiest plants to grow. They germinate easily, transplant well, direct sow well, and are not picky about growing conditions.

Unlike marigolds, calendula can not handle high heat well, so partial shade in very hot locations is recommended. Calendula is a perennial in hotter areas and is grown as an annual in colder climates.

From experience, I can say that these are TOUGH plants. Even when left in small cell flats in the sun, they grew and bloomed through the months. They didn't thrive, but they survived with minimal care in sub-par conditions.

They should not be grown in shade nor watered from overhead, as they are susceptible to powdery mildew. For more blooms, deadheading will help, but is not necessary.

They should NOT be grown with beans, as a chemical produced by their roots will stunt the growth of the beans.

uses

As with marigold, calendula can be planted in mass a season before planting tomatoes, garlic, onion, strawberry, snap bean, cucumber and squash to lower plant-parasitic nematodes. It is used prolifically by gardeners as a companion plant to attract beneficial insects and pollinators and as a trap crop for aphids and other pests.

It is used as an ornamental flower in containers, borders, and flower gardens. calendula can be used as a cut flower. Making sure to remove all leaves below the water line so they don't stink as the leaves rot quickly in water. The flowers can also be dried upside down and used in dried arrangements.

Calendula is one of the most common medicinal herbs. It has a long history of use in tinctures, salves and washes to treat skin wounds and ailments and for digestive issues. Most of the desirable compounds are located in the green base of the flower. Harvest the just-opened flowers once the dew is dry, every 2-3 days. If the plant goes to seed, it will stop producing. Dry the whole flower heads on screens until fully dry, up to 10 days. Store in glass until ready to use.

The petals are high in antioxidants and carotenoids. They can be used in salads, cookies, herbal butters, teas and any recipe calling for herbal flowers. Whole flowers can be used in soups and stews.

The only marigold that is edible is calendula officinalis. French and African marigolds are NOT EDIBLE nor medicinal.

Final Thoughts

I grow calendula mainly for salves and teas. However, they are just a most useful plant to have on the homestead. Whether it is as nematode control, trap crop, beneficial insect attractant, or just looking pretty, I will always have them prolific in my garden.

specs

Calendula officinalis

Type: Annual in cold areas/perennial in frost-free areas

Uses: Beneficial insect attractant, reduce parasitic nematodes, medicinal, edible flowers, yellow dye

Hardiness Zone: 2a-11b

Germination: Can be started indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost and transplanted out after frost date

Seed Prep: None

Seed Depth: 1 inch

Germination Time: 5-14 days

Growing Temp: 70-75°F

Height: 1-2 feet Spread: 1-2 feet

Spacing: 12 inches

Sunlight: Full sun in temperate climates, partial shade in very hot areas

Water Requirements: Average, drought tolerant, don't over water

Soil Quality: Average, well-drained, but not picky

Soil Chemistry: 6.0-7.0

Fertilize: Not needed

Growth Rate: Fast, reaches full maturity in 8 weeks

Bloomtime: Summer to fall Attracts: Pollinators Critter Resistant: Repels plant-parasitic nematodes, deer

Critter Attractant: Slugs, pest insects

Harvest: Flowers

Pruning: Pinch back early to encourage branching, deadhead regularly

Pests: Spider mites, aphids, Japanese beetles, white fly, rape blossom beetles, cutworms, white fringed beetle, lygus bug, six-spotted leafhopper, potato leafhopper, cyclamen mite, blister beetle

Diseases: Powdery mildew

Reseeds: Yes, aggressively

Propagation: Seeds

Garden Style: English cottage, wildflower, containers, border, medicinal

Companions: Most vegetables, may inhibit the growth of some herbs and will stunt the growth of beans

Allergy Potential: Topical rash in some people

https://www.thespruce.com/growing-and-using-calendula-1402626

https://chestnutherbs.com/calendula-sunshine-incarnate-an-edible-and-medicinal-flower/

GERMAN CHAMOMILE Matricaria chamomilla

The first time I grew chamomile, I fell in love. The scent, the taste and the look of the plant all just bring a bit of sunshine into even the most gloomy day. It is pretty, pollinator attracting, one of the most ancient medicinal plants and a must-have in the garden. I love the apple-y taste of the flowers and eat them right off the plant.

We are talking about German Chamomile, which is used as an herb. Roman Chamomile is used mainly as a perennial ground cover.

Growing

Chamomile likes cooler weather in the 60s, but is drought and heat tolerant. It is a very hardy plant that once established, and is difficult to neglect to death. As a self-seeding annual, it acts like a perennial in that once you plant it, you will have it back year after year. It prefers rich soil and to not be over watered. While it flowers more in full sun, in areas that have consistent temperatures over 100F, partial shade in the afternoon is recommended.

The seeds require light for germination and consistent moisture, so seeds are not covered. For this reason, starting indoors up to 6 weeks before last frost under a humidity dome may be the best bet on germination for a new bed. Since they reseed aggressively, you should only have to plant once and you'll get a continuous progression of volunteers.

Chamomile can get leggy and floppy, so it is not a good specimen or focal plant. It works best where more sturdy plants can help keep it propped up.

Reaching maturity at just 10 weeks, the flowers are harvested and eaten fresh, or dried or frozen for future use. The leaves are edible, but may be too bitter to taste.

uses

Chamomile is commonly paired with other herbs as a tea.

Final Thoughts

If you've never had fresh chamomile, you are in for a treat. The store bought teas just aren't the same. The smell and flavor are simply wonderful. A proliferation of daisy-like flowers swaying in the breeze, scenting the air with their lovely aroma, is an experience to be enjoyed.

specs

Matricaria chamomilla

Type: Annual

Uses: Medicinal, border, tea, edible flower, oil in beauty products & aromatherapy

Hardiness Zone: 2-9

Germination: Can be started indoors 6 weeks before last frost and transplanted out after frost date

Seed Prep:

Seed Depth: NONE, needs light to germinate

Germination Time: 7-14 days

Growing Temp: 60-68°F, doesn't do well over 100°F

Height: 8-24 inches Spread: 8-12 inches

Spacing: 8 inches

Sunlight: Full sun for best flowering, partial shade in intense heat areas

Water Requirements: Average, drought tolerant, don't over water

Soil Quality: Rich organic

Soil Chemistry: 5.6-7.5

Fertilize: Not needed

Growth Rate: Fast, reaches full maturity in 10 weeks

Bloomtime: Summer Attracts: Butterflies, bees Critter Resistant: Repels cucumber pests, cabbage moth and mosquitos

Critter Attractant: Pollinators hoverflies, beneficial wasps, ladybugs, butterflies, bumble bees and honey bees

Harvest: Flowers, leaves but they may be bitter

Pruning: Deadhead regularly

Pests: Aphids and thrips rarely

Diseases: Botrytis blight,

Reseeds: Yes, aggressively

Propagation: Seeds

Garden Style: English cottage, wildflower

Companions: Brassicas and cucumber as pest deterrent; increases the essential oil basil, rosemary and mint produces when planted together

Allergy Potential: Rare cases of anaphylaxis (a life-threatening allergic reaction) have occurred in people who consumed or came into contact with chamomile products. People are more likely to experience allergic reactions to chamomile if they're allergic to related plants such as ragweed, chrysanthemums, marigolds, or daisies

https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-grow-chamomile-1402627

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2995283/

https://www.nccih.nih.gov/health/chamomile#:~:text=Rare%20cases%20of%20anaphylaxis%20(a,chrysanthemums%2C%20marigolds%2C%20or%20daisies.

https://www.growforagecookferment.com/10-reasons-to-grow-chamomile/