ASPARAGUS [Asparagus officinalis]

In my city garden, I only had a 20 foot row of asparagus. It was just enough to snack on while working in the garden, (yes, I love crunching away at it raw!) and to MAYBE get one or two meals out of it. On this farm I have 400 feet of it for the market garden. Pretty sure it will be enough.

I have both green, variety Millenial, and purple, variety Purple Passion, at JCFS. I will be offering crowns each spring for the nursery and fresh cut seasonally for the farm market and CSA. 

CulinarY

Asparagus is a member of the lily family. It is high in folate, potassium, vitamin A, vitamin C, folic acid and plant fiber. It may help lower blood pressure, can act as a prebiotic and may help relieve inflammatory conditions. High in purines, which increase the production of uric acid, asparagus can increase issues with kidney stones and gout. 

If you are allergic to garlic and chives, you may be allergic to asparagus, too. 

An 80g (about 5 spears) portion of asparagus (boiled) provides:

2.7g protein
0.6g fat
1.1g carbohydrates
1.5g fibre
176mg potassium
311mcg carotene
138mcg folate
8mg vitamin C

Some people comment that asparagus has a strong smell. Its asparaguisic acid, when broken down through cooking, creates sulphur containing compounds, causing the smell.

Asparagus freezes well. 

GrowinG

Asparagus is one of those amazing early-season vegetables that herald the gardening season is upon us. It is a perennial vegetable and crowns can produce for 10 or more years. The spears are the immature ferns.

Asparagus is dioecious, meaning it has both male and female plants. Male types produce more spears than female plants do. The female plant will produce the red berries with seeds. 

Since asparagus is long-lived, doing your bed up right in the beginning is important. They like a well-drained and light, sandy soil. They hate competition, so keeping your bed weed free is important. They should not be rotated into a bed that previously had onion, chive or another member of the same family to reduce the chance of disease spread. 

Purple Passion produces big spears, so keeping spacing to only 8 inches between crowns will keep the size restrained to produce smaller spears. Purple Passion is sweeter than the green varieties. Green varieties should be spaced 12-18 inches apart. For both, rows should be at least 5 feet apart to allow the ferns the space they need and to ensure proper spear size.

Check your soil before planting and add lime as needed to achieve a ph level of 6.5-7.0. Dig a 6 inch deep furrow and add an inch of compost to the bottom. Add an inch of soil. Crowns should be spread out over a cone of soil with 2 inches of soil over the top of the crown. As they grow and spears emerge the first year, soil should be continued to be piled on them so they just peak through until it is about 6 inches deep over the crown.

New asparagus plantings need good irrigation for the first two or three seasons. Drought stress can reduce yields. Organic mulches such as leaves, grass clippings, or straw can be applied 4-6 inches deep to help suppress weeds. My favorite is comfrey cuttings.

Asparagus beetles are their nemesis, but cutworms, grasshoppers and aphids are also a danger. Crown rot can be caused by overharvesting, growing in acidic or waterlogged soils and excessive pet pressure. Needle blight creates rust colored ovals on the ferns and causes the ferns to die. 

Do not harvest the first year. The 2nd year after planting, asparagus can be harvested for 2 weeks. Harvest spears that are as thick as a #2 pencil or larger every 2-3 days. Leave the spindly ones and do not over harvest. The ferns store the energy for the next year's growth. Three years after planting you can harvest for 5-8 weeks. Yields will increase each year if the plant is managed properly.

Harvest in the morning by snapping the spear off when around 7 inches high and the spear tip is still tight. Using a knife can spread disease between plants. Harvest spears before a predicted freeze. Harvested spears need to be placed in cold water to flash chill, drained and immediately refrigerated to maintain quality. The season is usually mid-April until the first of June.

Do not cut back ferns until they are thoroughly dead. Cut and burn to reduce disease and pest issues. Mulching over winter can help protect the crowns.

FinaL

Some people do not like asparagus. I KNOW. Weirdos. It's one of my spring time culinary joys. I eagerly anticipate the spears poking up their little heads. The adult gardner's version of anticipating Santa's arrival. It's a very similar feeling when you see that first "present." 

Asparagus is one of those plants that needs babied it's first couple of years, and then is off and running. They take up a lot of bed space, produce for a short time (although very well), and are really only able to be frozen for storage, not canned. Again, taking up valuable space. But are they worth it? Absolutely!!

sPECS

Asparagus officinalis

Type: Perennial

Uses: Culinary vegetable

Hardiness Zone:

Days to Maturity: 3 years from planting

Plant out: In spring as soon as soil can be worked or fall

Crown Prep: Keep in fridge until ready to plant

Crown Depth: 2 inches to start, 6 inches after growth

Growing Temp: 50 degrees

Height: 4 feet

Spacing: 12-18 inches green, 8 inches purple

Spread: 24 inches

Sunlight: Full sun

Water Requirements: Well irrigated first 3 years, drought tolerant after 3 years

Soil Quality: Well drained, loose, sandy

Soil Chemistry: Slightly acidic 6.5-7.0 pH

Crop Rotation: Do not plant where other allium and onions have been planted for the last year, preferably last 3 years

Fertilize: Top dress lightly with compost in spring, add nitrogen in spring

Growth Rate: Quick to grow, slow to mature

Bloomtime: Summer

Flowers: Berries just seem to appear. There must be flowers, but I've never noticed them.

Leaf color: Leaf green

Critter Attractant: None

Attracts: Rabbits, squirrels and other animals will eat new shoots 
Critter Resistant: Listed as deer resistant, but they will eat it if nothing better is around, especially new shoots

Harvest: Spears over pencil size for 2 weeks at 2 years after planting, 5-7 weeks 3 years of planting and beyond

Pruning: Remove spent ferns by early spring; remove and burn to reduce disease

Mulch: Mulch 6-8 inches with straw, leaves, grass clippings to reduce weeds and offer protection in winter

Pests: Asparagus beetle, aphids, grasshopper, cutworms

Diseases: Crown rot, needle blight

Reseeds: Yes, if you have female plants

Propagation: Crowns from new growth, seed

Storage: For long-term storage, store crowns in a dark room as close to 32F as possible

Preservation: Freeze for long-term storage

Garden Style: Vegetable

Companions: Not garlic, it can stunt asparagus

Allergy Potential: Yes, people with allium allergies are allergic to onions, shallots, garlic

Cullinary Use: Side vegetable

Medicinal: Vitamins, reduce inflammation

https://www.bbcgoodfood.com/howto/guide/health-benefits-asparagus

https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/g6405

MILKWEED COMMON Asclepias syriaca

 [WARNING: Toxic to humans and animals - toxic cardiac glycosides]

I was SO happy to find plenty of milkweed growing in the pastures when I bought this property. I had only had milkweed vine at my city house and small farm. While the vine drew in the monarchs, I rarely found caterpillars on it.

Since milkweed is toxic to my animals, especially goats and sheep, I'm attempting to eradicate it from the pastures and move it to my pollinator garden.

Milkweed is actually a very pretty flowering plant with nice big leaves and gorgeous clusters of pale purpley-pinky flowers.

Monocrops have destroyed much of the milkweed in the United States with herbicides, which has led to a dangerous decrease in the number of monarch butterflies. www.saveourmonarchs.org has wonderful information on habitat formation.

Growing

As the name says, it is a weed. As with most weeds, it will grow pretty much anywhere it can find even minimal conditions for growth. Milkweed prefers full sun and average to rich soil. It can handle drought but prefers average water conditions of an inch per week.

Milkweed roots can spread farther than you think, so other plants nearby may suffer, as milkweed will gobble up available nutrients. Give it space of at least two feet.

It can definitely be invasive. The fluff [floss] on the seeds can spread it far and wide quickly. And as a deeply rooted perennial, it can be difficult to eradicate. To keep it in check, remove seed pods before they open.

Propagation can be done via seed, cuttings or rhizome splits. Plants from cuttings may flower the first year, all will bloom in the second year. The seeds need 30 days of cold stratification and as little covering as possible. They will not push through mulch and other covers.

uses

During World War II, the regular material used to stuff life jackets was in short supply, so milkweed floss was used as a substitute. It is about six times more buoyant than cork. [Almanac.com]

The most common use for milkweed these days is as a pollinator food, especially the monarch butterfly that relies on it for nourishment for their caterpillars. More than 450 insect species feed on common milkweed.

Milkweed has been used as a medicinal plant in many cultures for many uses. It can be dangerous, and even lethal if ingested and the milky secretions may cause a skin reqction. It is advised to wear gloves when handling milkweed plants and to not use any part of the plant for medicinal use without extensive knowledge and experience in herbal remedies, and milkweed in particular.

Final Thoughts

Milkweed is one of the best plants you can grow for pollinators. Keeping this one in check is very easy with the large, easily removed, seed pods. While you want to plant it away from children and animals, it is a pretty back border plant for any garden, but especially a pollinator garden.

sPECS

Asclepias syriaca
Type: Herbaceous perennial
Uses: Pollinator attractant, especially monarch butterflies
Hardiness Zone: 3-9
Germination: Can be started indoors 4-8 weeks before last frost and transplanted out after frost date, direct seed spring after last frost or fall before frost
Seed Prep: Cold stratifications minimum 30 days
Seed Depth: Compress into soil and water well, keep moist until germination
Germination Time: 7-10 days
Growing Temp: 65-75°F
Height: 3-6 feet
Spread: 18-24 inches
Spacing: 18-24 inches
Sunlight: Full sun
Water Requirements: Average, drought tolerant, don't over water as it can lead to a lethal fungus
Soil Quality: Average, well-drained
Soil Chemistry: 4-8-6.8
Fertilize: Not needed
Growth Rate: Agressive
Bloomtime: June-August
Attracts: Pollinators like butterflies, bees, humming birds
Critter Resistant: Repels most pests, deer
Critter Attractant: Monarch butterflies
Harvest: Roots and sap for medicinal purposes, DANGEROUS, use only with knowledge and care
Pruning: Deadhead regularly
Pests: Milkweed bugs, aphids, whiteflies, scale insects, spider mites, thrips, and leaf miners, usually do little harm
Diseases: Leaf spot, verticillium wilt, and root rot
Reseeds: Yes, aggressively
Propagation: Seeds, cuttings, rhizome divisions
Garden Style: English cottage, pollinator, wildflower, border
Companions: Goldenrod, black-eyed Susans
Traditional Medicinal Uses: Yes
Allergy Potential: DANGEROUS TO HUMANS AND ANIMALS All parts of the plant contain toxic cardiac glycosides, which can cause nausea, diarrhea, weakness, and confusion in small amounts, and seizures, heart rhythm changes, respiratory paralysis, and even death in large amounts. Milkweed can also irritate the skin and eyes if touched.

 https://www.thespruce.com/milkweed-plants-monarch-butterfly-host-2132954#:~:text=Common%20milkweed%20does%20not%20need,result%20in%20a%20lethal%20fungus.

https://www.poison.org/articles/milkweed-can-cause-serious-poisoning-204

https://www.gardendesign.com/plants/milkweed.html

https://www.almanac.com/plant/milkweed

FRENCH MARIGOLD Tagetes patula

I was never a fan of marigolds growing up. They just seemed so...common. They didn't have the majesty of the cut flowers nor the floral ambiance of others. However, as a gardener, I have come to adore these plants and have depended upon their presence as a pest repellant [wrong!] They are possibly the most important flower I grow.  

The main two varieties of marigold are French Tagetes patula and African Tagetes erecta. The heritage French varieties are smaller and supposedly more pest repellant. The showier newer varieties have lost much of their aromatic qualities. The African are larger and showier. I only grow French.

Research has shown that growing marigolds as a pest repellant is a gardening myth. However, most gardeners would disagree, as their anecdotal evidence is strong. This is most likely due not to repellant properties, but the attractant qualities that bring in beneficial insects that do their job. Same outcome.

Research does prove them beneficial in lowering plant-parasitic nematodes in soil.

Growing

Marigolds are one of the easiest plants to grow. They germinate easily, transplant well, direct sow well, are not picky about growing conditions and can handle heat.

They should not be grown in shade nor watered from overhead, as they are susceptible to powdery mildew. For more blooms, deadheading will help, but is not necessary.

They should NOT be grown with beans, as a chemical produced by their roots will stunt the growth of the beans.

uses

French marigold is planted in mass a season before planting tomatoes, garlic, onion, strawberry, snap bean, cucumber and squash to lower plant-parasitic nematodes. It is used prolifically by gardeners as a companion plant to attract beneficial insects and pollinators and as a trap crop for aphids and other pests.

It is used as an ornamental flower in containers, borders, and flower gardens. Marigolds can be used as a cut flower. Making sure to remove all leaves below the water line so they don't stink as the leaves rot quickly in water. The flowers can also be dried upside down and used in dried arrangements.

The only marigold that is edible is calendula. French and African marigolds are NOT EDIBLE nor medicinal.

Final Thoughts

I grow a LOT of marigolds for my garden and interplant them throughout my garden. I was very surprised to find out that research did not support marigolds as being pest repellant. As gardeners have said for so very many years, there is something about them that is beneficial to gardens. Whether it is as nematode control, trap crop, beneficial insect attractant, or just looking pretty, I will always have them prolific in my garden.

specs

Tgetes patula

Type: Annual

Uses: Beneficial insect attractant, reduce parasitic nematodes

Hardiness Zone: 2-11

Germination: Can be started indoors 4-6 weeks before last frost and transplanted out after frost date

Seed Prep: None

Seed Depth: 1 inch

Germination Time: 7-14 days

Growing Temp: 70-75°F

Height: 6-24 inches Spread: 8-12 inches

Spacing: 8-10 inches

Sunlight: Full sun for best flowering, potential for powdery mildew in shade

Water Requirements: Average, drought tolerant, don't over water

Soil Quality: Average, well-drained, but not picky

Soil Chemistry: 5.6-7.5

Fertilize: Not needed

Growth Rate: Fast, reaches full maturity in 8 weeks

Bloomtime: Summer Attracts: Pollinators; beneficial insects lady bugs, hover flies, parasitic wasps Critter Resistant: Repels plant-parasitic nematodes [proven], deer

Critter Attractant: Slugs, pest insects

Harvest: Flowers

Pruning: Pinch back early to encourage branching, deadhead regularly

Pests: Spider mites, aphids, Japanese beetles, white fly, rape blossom beetles, cutworms, white fringed beetle, lygus bug, six-spotted leafhopper, potato leafhopper, cyclamen mite, blister beetle

Diseases: Powdery mildew

Reseeds: Yes, aggressively

Propagation: Seeds

Garden Style: English cottage, wildflower, containers, border

Companions: Most vegetables, may inhibit the growth of some herbs and will stunt the growth of beans

Allergy Potential: Topical rash in some people

https://piedmontmastergardeners.org/article/magical-repelling-powers-of-marigolds-myth-or-fact/

https://www.britannica.com/video/174126/video-dahlia-flower-opening

https://www.gardenmyths.com/marigolds-companion-plant/

https://naldc.nal.usda.gov/download/CAT87210014/PDF