ASPARAGUS [Asparagus officinalis]

In my city garden, I only had a 20 foot row of asparagus. It was just enough to snack on while working in the garden, (yes, I love crunching away at it raw!) and to MAYBE get one or two meals out of it. On this farm I have 400 feet of it for the market garden. Pretty sure it will be enough.

I have both green, variety Millenial, and purple, variety Purple Passion, at JCFS. I will be offering crowns each spring for the nursery and fresh cut seasonally for the farm market and CSA. 

CulinarY

Asparagus is a member of the lily family. It is high in folate, potassium, vitamin A, vitamin C, folic acid and plant fiber. It may help lower blood pressure, can act as a prebiotic and may help relieve inflammatory conditions. High in purines, which increase the production of uric acid, asparagus can increase issues with kidney stones and gout. 

If you are allergic to garlic and chives, you may be allergic to asparagus, too. 

An 80g (about 5 spears) portion of asparagus (boiled) provides:

2.7g protein
0.6g fat
1.1g carbohydrates
1.5g fibre
176mg potassium
311mcg carotene
138mcg folate
8mg vitamin C

Some people comment that asparagus has a strong smell. Its asparaguisic acid, when broken down through cooking, creates sulphur containing compounds, causing the smell.

Asparagus freezes well. 

GrowinG

Asparagus is one of those amazing early-season vegetables that herald the gardening season is upon us. It is a perennial vegetable and crowns can produce for 10 or more years. The spears are the immature ferns.

Asparagus is dioecious, meaning it has both male and female plants. Male types produce more spears than female plants do. The female plant will produce the red berries with seeds. 

Since asparagus is long-lived, doing your bed up right in the beginning is important. They like a well-drained and light, sandy soil. They hate competition, so keeping your bed weed free is important. They should not be rotated into a bed that previously had onion, chive or another member of the same family to reduce the chance of disease spread. 

Purple Passion produces big spears, so keeping spacing to only 8 inches between crowns will keep the size restrained to produce smaller spears. Purple Passion is sweeter than the green varieties. Green varieties should be spaced 12-18 inches apart. For both, rows should be at least 5 feet apart to allow the ferns the space they need and to ensure proper spear size.

Check your soil before planting and add lime as needed to achieve a ph level of 6.5-7.0. Dig a 6 inch deep furrow and add an inch of compost to the bottom. Add an inch of soil. Crowns should be spread out over a cone of soil with 2 inches of soil over the top of the crown. As they grow and spears emerge the first year, soil should be continued to be piled on them so they just peak through until it is about 6 inches deep over the crown.

New asparagus plantings need good irrigation for the first two or three seasons. Drought stress can reduce yields. Organic mulches such as leaves, grass clippings, or straw can be applied 4-6 inches deep to help suppress weeds. My favorite is comfrey cuttings.

Asparagus beetles are their nemesis, but cutworms, grasshoppers and aphids are also a danger. Crown rot can be caused by overharvesting, growing in acidic or waterlogged soils and excessive pet pressure. Needle blight creates rust colored ovals on the ferns and causes the ferns to die. 

Do not harvest the first year. The 2nd year after planting, asparagus can be harvested for 2 weeks. Harvest spears that are as thick as a #2 pencil or larger every 2-3 days. Leave the spindly ones and do not over harvest. The ferns store the energy for the next year's growth. Three years after planting you can harvest for 5-8 weeks. Yields will increase each year if the plant is managed properly.

Harvest in the morning by snapping the spear off when around 7 inches high and the spear tip is still tight. Using a knife can spread disease between plants. Harvest spears before a predicted freeze. Harvested spears need to be placed in cold water to flash chill, drained and immediately refrigerated to maintain quality. The season is usually mid-April until the first of June.

Do not cut back ferns until they are thoroughly dead. Cut and burn to reduce disease and pest issues. Mulching over winter can help protect the crowns.

FinaL

Some people do not like asparagus. I KNOW. Weirdos. It's one of my spring time culinary joys. I eagerly anticipate the spears poking up their little heads. The adult gardner's version of anticipating Santa's arrival. It's a very similar feeling when you see that first "present." 

Asparagus is one of those plants that needs babied it's first couple of years, and then is off and running. They take up a lot of bed space, produce for a short time (although very well), and are really only able to be frozen for storage, not canned. Again, taking up valuable space. But are they worth it? Absolutely!!

sPECS

Asparagus officinalis

Type: Perennial

Uses: Culinary vegetable

Hardiness Zone:

Days to Maturity: 3 years from planting

Plant out: In spring as soon as soil can be worked or fall

Crown Prep: Keep in fridge until ready to plant

Crown Depth: 2 inches to start, 6 inches after growth

Growing Temp: 50 degrees

Height: 4 feet

Spacing: 12-18 inches green, 8 inches purple

Spread: 24 inches

Sunlight: Full sun

Water Requirements: Well irrigated first 3 years, drought tolerant after 3 years

Soil Quality: Well drained, loose, sandy

Soil Chemistry: Slightly acidic 6.5-7.0 pH

Crop Rotation: Do not plant where other allium and onions have been planted for the last year, preferably last 3 years

Fertilize: Top dress lightly with compost in spring, add nitrogen in spring

Growth Rate: Quick to grow, slow to mature

Bloomtime: Summer

Flowers: Berries just seem to appear. There must be flowers, but I've never noticed them.

Leaf color: Leaf green

Critter Attractant: None

Attracts: Rabbits, squirrels and other animals will eat new shoots 
Critter Resistant: Listed as deer resistant, but they will eat it if nothing better is around, especially new shoots

Harvest: Spears over pencil size for 2 weeks at 2 years after planting, 5-7 weeks 3 years of planting and beyond

Pruning: Remove spent ferns by early spring; remove and burn to reduce disease

Mulch: Mulch 6-8 inches with straw, leaves, grass clippings to reduce weeds and offer protection in winter

Pests: Asparagus beetle, aphids, grasshopper, cutworms

Diseases: Crown rot, needle blight

Reseeds: Yes, if you have female plants

Propagation: Crowns from new growth, seed

Storage: For long-term storage, store crowns in a dark room as close to 32F as possible

Preservation: Freeze for long-term storage

Garden Style: Vegetable

Companions: Not garlic, it can stunt asparagus

Allergy Potential: Yes, people with allium allergies are allergic to onions, shallots, garlic

Cullinary Use: Side vegetable

Medicinal: Vitamins, reduce inflammation

https://www.bbcgoodfood.com/howto/guide/health-benefits-asparagus

https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/g6405

Toxic Squash Syndrome

Most people don't know about this hidden danger. Even seasoned gardeners and farmers. When two squashes of different varieties cross-pollinate, the resulting seeds can create a squash that is high in cucurbitacins, making it poisonous. 

Luckily, a bitter taste will usually have someone spitting out and abandoning the fruit. Problems come when the bitterness is masked through cooking or a recipe with strong added flavors, or the person doesn't mind a bitter flavor. 

Cucurbit poisoning, usually called toxic squash syndrome, while uncommon, can result in severe symptoms. Hair loss and food-poisoning symptoms are most common, including diarrhea, vomiting dizziness, and stomach pain. If severe, it can cause swelling of the pancreas, liver, gallbladder and kidneys. A German man died in 2015 after eating a zucchini.

In more recent research that appeared in the Journal of Clinical Toxicology in January 2018, a French poison center identified more than 350 instances of food poisoning connected to bitter-tasting squash that occurred between 2012 and 2016. Results showed that 26% of those cases were vegetables from home gardens, whereas about 56% of those cases involved store-bought squash.

The chemicals called cucurbitacins give fruits bitter flavor and make them poisonous. Normal pollination within a variety results in little to no production of these chemicals. The cucurbitaceae family includes cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, gourds and squash. Planting seed from variety-segregated seed sources and farms will have almost no chance of having cross-pollinated fruit and almost no chance of being a danger. 

Many home gardeners, and unknowing farmers, may decide to save seeds from squash and use them the following year. This is where the problems arise.

Growing ornamental gourds alongside cucurbits you plan to eat, is one of the listed reasons for bad cross-pollination. If you plan to save seeds, you must grow edible and non-edible gourds separately and ensure that pollination stays pure. Cross-pollination with wild plants is also a risk, as wild plants are much higher in cucurbitacins than cultivated varieties.

You may think that you are only growing them for decorative use, but then someone decides to eat one. I know of someone who was selling specialty pumpkin seeds that were most likely cross-pollinated with several other pumpkin and squash variety grown in the same field. That is a huge liability. After I explained the issue, they decided to stop selling and the following year used row cover and hand pollination to keep the varieties pure. 

So please only eat squash that you know is from pure seed and reputable sources who can ensure that the seed is pure. Always try a small bite of any cucurbit family fruit before cooking. If you taste bitterness, toss it. 

Many farmers get left-over cucurbit fruits to feed to their livestock. Please keep in mind that they can be toxic to animals as well. So, again, be careful of your sourcing, know what to ask, ask about the purity of the product.

While it may be rare, it can also be severe. Just be careful with the squash. When in doubt, toss it out.

https://www.nnc.gov.ph/regional-offices/mindanao/region-ix-zamboanga-peninsula/9132-what-is-toxic-squash-syndrome#:~:text=Cucurbit%20poisoning%2C%20often%20referred%20to,melons%2C%20pumpkins%2C%20and%20squash.

https://www.ccmhhealth.com/pumpkin-lovers-beware-know-the-signs-of-toxic-squash-syndrome/#:~:text=The%20most%20common%20symptoms%20associated,gallbladder%2C%20kidney%2C%20and%20pancreas.

https://www.medicinenet.com/why_is_squash_bad_for_you/article.htm

SEED STARTING

I'm seeing and responding to a lot of chatter on the gardening and homesteading sites [including my own] about starting transplants, and I wanted to do a more in-depth tutorial on how I do it.

[This post contains Amazon affiliate links.]

There are several key elements to a good transplant:

• Fresh seeds. Seeds really shouldn't be more than 2 years old, unless they have been stored in the fridge or freezer, for proper germination.
• Proper growing medium. You need a good TRANSPLANT medium, not soil, not compost, not potting soil, but actual starting medium. You can make your own, but for most home gardeners it is more economical to buy it.
• Enough, proper, light. A sunny south facing window is fine for a couple weeks, but if you are starting a lot of plants, and/or way early, you need a proper light source with a full spectrum light. Without enough light, your plants will grow too tall too fast and be spindly and weak, and often not make it.
• Enough space. You can start 200 tiny seeds in a single tray, but what are you going to do when those 200 seeds are now plants in pots and still need the warmth of inside and plenty of proper light?
• Enough water. Seeds must stay moist until sprouted. This requires some diligence in checking and maintaining a good moisture content without flooding. Also, where is any extra water going to go? You don't want dirty water on your living carpet because that's the south facing window where you need to put your seedling trays. One full day with lack of water has the possibility of killing off your efforts. Two days, definitely, unless you have self-watering trays.
• Time. Read the instruction on the seed packages to see when and where to plant. It says exactly the time frame when to start transplants indoors so that they will be ready on the proper date for transplanting out of doors. You need to plan for babying through those weeks and supplying what they need to be strong and sturdy.

What doesn't matter, is what you pot them in. I've started seeds in plastic containers from take out and grocery produce. I love tin foil pans for catering that I can buy in bulk and sanitize each year effectively, but they are not real sturdy and need careful handling.

Yes, you can start seeds in anything and put them in a sunny southern-facing window for a few weeks, but if you plan on a large garden, for many years, or selling, you'll want/need to invest in the proper set-up.

I finally got serious about transplants and got a proper set-up a few years ago. It has made a HUGE difference in what I am able to do, the ease of doing it, and the health of my transplants and eventual garden. Here's what I bought.

Starter trays in different sizes for different reasons.

10 pack growing trays

10 pack growing trays, standard size 1020, WITHOUT holes. I use these as the bases for my seedling trays because it allows extra water to go through and collect in the bottom rather than running all over my house. They aren't that sturdy, but I don't need them to be. I also use these as starting trays for very fine seeds. I just sprinkle them all over the soil and cover. With no holes, it retains moisture better, I just need to keep a watch that I don't OVER water when using them without cell trays. If you want more sturdy ones, they will cost you, but you can get them from market garden stores such as Boot Strap Farmers and they will last significantly longer if you plan for heavy use.

200 cell tray

I use the 200 cell tray for anything I want to start that has seeds large enough to plant individually, even if it is with a pair of tweezers, that I plan to quickly transplant into larger containers. Most seedlings you can transplant as early as when they get their first set of true leaves, not the 2 they start off with. I usually wait until I feel they have outgrown their cells.

50 cell tray

50 cell trays are for things that I want to grow in them until transplant, but they are happy without too much room. Like marigolds that I start a bit later. I like this brand because they are a bit sturdier than the cheaper ones.

3 inch biodegradable pots 12 cell biodegradable pots

Biodegradable pots are necessary for plants that don't like their roots disturbed. I start and end the seeds in these pots, transplanting with as little shock as possible to the plant and maintaining the roots at all times. The larger pots I will use for melons, squash and cucumber. The smaller ones I will use for nasturtiums and spinach. Spinach can go out early, so they don't stay inside long enough to need a larger pot, and nasturtiums I start late, so again, they aren't inside very long. I'm not a fan of peat pellets or these biodegradable containers. I only use them if I have to. They dry out way too quick and if I have them in a warm greenhouse or outside in the wind and sun, they are a pain to keep moist enough.

People love the idea of newspaper pots, but I have not found that they hold up for me. And if wondering about the ink, ink on newspapers is a soy product, so fine. I would NOT use anything other than newsprint, though. No grocery adds, nothing glossy or colored if you would like to try making them for yourself.

Seedling tray humidity dome vented

These are my very favorite humidity domes. They fit the trays well and they are low enough to get under my lights for new seedlings to get the best light intensity. I bought some cheaper and found they didn't have the adjustable ventilation. I ended up with mold on my trays pretty fast. I keep the vent closed until the first sprout emerges, or I see signs of fungus, then I open the vent until they all emerge. As soon as the sprouts are all out-ish or the first one reaches dome height, I remove this cover.

Seedling tray heat mat

I can't begin to say how much I love these heat mats. They fit PERFECTLY under my seedling trays and drastically improve germination rates and times.

4 foot wide steel rolling 6 shelves

This unit works beautifully. The width and depth are perfect for my lights and holds two trays on each shelf. I can raise and lower the shelf heights as needed and the center bar holds my lights up by S hooks.

4 foot shop light with grow/full spectrum bulbs

You can use pretty much any florescent shop light, but you just MUST use full spectrum bulbs. Grow light bulbs are often more expensive, but they are the exact same as full spectrum, so no need to purchase the "special" bulbs. FYI that bulb sizes changed and you can't just grab any old shop light off Craig's list and expect to be able to get bulbs for it. Make sure that if you purchase one, it takes the T5 bulbs. 

You can't even really find these fixtures anymore, so this year I changed over to these LED linkable bulbs.

Full spectrum LED grow light, dimmable

LED's are another option. Again, need full spectrum. My brother uses these in his garage growing and is a huge fan. So this last year I bought one on Black Friday at a decent price. I'll be using it for my larger up-pot summer crops until they can go outside. I just read a comment of someone concerned because they were looking at several cloudy cold days and they didn't have enough room under lights after up potting their new starts. They were concerned about them getting leggy. It is a valid concern, so be prepared.

Mylar blankets

Seriously. They are like a buck and change and fit perfectly around the shelving unit. I layer one on top and one on the bottom. I've seen people use foil, but these don't tear and they reflect the heat and light So much better. HIGHLY recommend. Can also be used as frost covers as long as they are kept off the plants. For instance, cover the plants with over turned pots or row hoops and throw a mylar blanket over, staking or weighing down the edges.

I use these extension banks in several applications. If you have a lot of lights, heat mats, fan, etc. going, they work great. 

Organic seed starting mix

Doesn't matter what brand. I usually get Jiffy or Promix from Walmart. But get organic.

Water storing crystals

Solo cups. Yeah, I know, they are a chemical based product, but they WORK. It is so nice to not have to baby my transplants when outside all day and worry about them drying out too much to salvage if I can't be there to water them more than once a day. 

16 oz solo cups

So, yeah. This is what I use as final pots for my personal use. I stack them up and use my largest drill bit to put holes through the bottoms. I can wash and sanitize and use the next year.

If stored indoors, they hold up longer than 10 years. If stored outside and freeze, they still hold up about 3 years in my experience before they get brittle. The 16 oz. are the PERFECT size, comparable to a 4 inch pot in volume.

Convertible green house

So I just started 200 seeds of sage. JUST sage. I have a lot of plants and only so much light and space inside for them. I must have a green house.

I couldn't afford the one I wanted, or to build the one I REALLY wanted at my city house, so I bought this one off Amazon. I really liked it. Nice and sturdy even though it has little frame work made of fairly light metal. It was surprisingly warm and comfy in there, had good ventilation with the window, nice big entry to wheel stuff in and out, nice and tall so I could stack benches and wide enough to hold a lot of plants and still move around. I loved that I could take off the cover during the summer and replace it with screen for a squash bug-free growing hut, or add cattle panels to make a nice vine trellis, and be able to use it as a shady chicken or rabbit run. It actually seemed like a much better idea than a plastic or glass greenhouse that I could ONLY use for spring transplants and summer storage.

What I did NOT like about it, was that it is a giant kite. Even with cement blocks laying on the down flaps, it blew across the lawn. With the frame TIED to cement blocks, the cover still ripped away. Even with the wind just blowing on it, it tore through the ties and became un-useable pretty quick.

SO. This year I am covering it with plastic AND tying it down to hold everything secure.

23,000BTU kerosene heater

With so many plants to get outside pretty early, and it has frosted here just a few years back on May 1st, the greenhouse needs to be kept above freezing, at least. My friend Rick just started using this heater in his plastic-covered hoop frame greenhouse and he says it works beautifully. So, I'm getting one. He says it costs about $4/day to run [Jan. 2021], which isn't insignificant, but when you consider the jump on the growing season you get, especially in colder climates, with doing transplants, the cost can be majorly offset by the benefits.

Outlet Bank

Timer

I like to have my lights on a timer. While the lights link, I have a lot of them and heat mats, a fan, etc. Some plants need light for germination, so I may want to leave those lights on 24/7. I like the flexibility of having these two items.

I know. It sounds like a lot. A lot of stuff and money. It is. But if you are serious about your garden/homestead then making this investment is to your benefit. Food costs are a huge budget line for most families and by starting early and getting a jump on the growing season, you can put up a greater quantity of food for the year. Most of this is a one-time investment with a long-term lifespan, so when you take the cost over say a 10 year span and average it out, it can become quite reasonable.

You also don't have to jump in and purchase everything in one year. Get a used shelving unit locally for cheap/use one you already have/just screw in some hooks to a ceiling to hang a light from some rope/wire/chain, BUY a good light or purchase the correct light bulbs for a shop light you already have and use whatever containers you have on hand.

The light is often the biggest issues for people just starting out with transplants. Get that going correctly first. Just a window isn't good enough for long enough.

Plant just enough to work within the set-up you have. Planting too many seeds that will get leggy has no benefit.

So how does all of this go together? I hang the lights with S hooks on chain so that I can raise and lower them as needed. You can also keep the lights at one height and raise and lower the flats by placing them on books, boxes or any base. Seedlings need to be as close to the light, but not touching, as possible, for about 12-14 hours a day. The mylar blankets get wrapped around the shelving. I found that they fit perfectly two high with the length wrapped around two sides and the back.

The lights are all linked and on a timer and heat mats stay on all the time. [Timers are best purchased after Christmas when they are on clearance.] 

I'm pretty precise in seeding my trays. I really don't want to waste any seeds. Make sure to read directions! Some seeds require light to germinate and shouldn't be covered, some require cold stratification of living in the fridge or freezer for several weeks before planting, and some require the hard seed coat to be nicked or rubbed on sand paper so that water can penetrate for germination, call scarification. Some also require being soaked. Some seeds are just hard to germinate, and those I tend to stratify, scarify and soak before planting. Looking at you lavender!

If I don't have enough heat mats, I keep my newly-planted flats as high as possible in the highest heat areas of the house. Often this is above kitchen cabinets and on top of the fridge. They must be checked daily for sprouts and water needs. As soon as you see a sprout, it needs to be moved under light. 

If mold starts to form, I add a bit of vinegar to a spray bottle full of water and give that tray a very light mist.

Plant stems grow stronger outside due to wind. Placing a fan on low on your seedlings will help them grow as strong inside. Turn the flat every once in a while so that they get it buffeted from multiple directions.

As always, if you have any questions or comments, please feel free to post them below!

SILVER FOX RABBIT

I've been a fan of silver fox rabbits for a long time. I've raised rabbits for most of the last 40 years, and had many great ones. The temperament of these rabbits is truly so remarkably sweet. They are a very social rabbit. Their fur is a luxury to pet, and play with its stand-up quality. The does are wonderful mothers and much more patient with the kits than other breeds I've raised. They are a large breed rabbit.

Silver fox is an American heritage breed developed by Walter B. Garland in Ohio. It is believed to be a cross of checkered giants, champagne d'argents and English silver or American blue.

American Rabbit Breeder Association recognized the breed in 1925 for both blue and black coloring. The blue coloring was dropped as a recognized breed in the 1970s due to low numbers. Silver fox is one of the rarest breeds in the U.S. It is considered a threatened breed by the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy.

I have both black and blue does and a black buck. I have been a member of the ARBA for many years.

uses

Silver fox are a true multi-use breed. They are considered one of the best pet rabbits for small children and the elderly due to their sweet natures and larger size. They can handle a bit more roughness than other, smaller breeds.

Silver fox are the only rabbit to have the unique standup coat. If smoothed in the wrong direction, it will stand up and stay until smoothed back down. The fur is highly valued for this property and the black/silver coloring.

Bred as a commercial fur and meat rabbit, they are large in size and reach maturity for butcher at 16 weeks with a finish weight around 2.5 lbs.

The rarity of silver fox makes them a unique addition for showing. With standard confirmation and no special care required, they are an easy show rabbit to raise.

raising and care

As a large breed rabbit, a MINIMUM cage space of 30x36 inches is needed per rabbit, more for breeding does that will have to be housed with many kits for 8 weeks.

Silver fox do not require any special care. However, they handle cold much better than heat. If housed outside, wrap the hutch in plastic when it gets below freezing to help insulate and keep the wind off. I add a piece of insulation board on top of the hutch as well. Provide a nest box and fill with hay or straw, if they don't have a hidey-house, to give them a more insulated space to go. Ensure that proper cross ventilation is still provided. In the summer, providing a fan, frozen jugs of water to cuddle with, and frozen veggies to nibble on are helpful. Placing the hutch in deep shade is recommended.

Standard care for rabbits is feeding 70% hay and 30% pellets, fruits and vegetables. Hay helps keep their teeth filed down, but adding a block or stick of wood for them to chew on is advised. Mineral and salt blocks provide any additional trace minerals they may need. Fresh, clean water should always be available. Sanitize food containers and water bottles weekly with a mild vinegar solution.

Toenails should be clipped as needed. Never bathe a rabbit. Brush and spot clean with a wet cloth as needed. Brush a couple times a week when shedding.

Ear mites can be eliminated with a dropper of oil placed into the ear and massaged around for a few days in a row. Fly strike may occur for those housed outside. Fleas and ticks are also possible. There are many non-toxic herbal remedies to keep insects off of your rabbits. Flea and tick medications and shampoos for kittens NOT DOGS OR CATS, can be used by weight. ALWAYS check with your vet before using any medication, even over-the-counter, on any animal.

Rabbits can be raised on small wire, but a wooden platform or box should be provided where they can get off of it. Bedding should be kept clean, and removed and replaced weekly. Rabbits will use a litter pan if provided. I should say most rabbits. I've had teen boy rabbits be just as bad at keeping their pee in the right spot as teenage human boys. Splash guards are recommended.

Rabbits like their freedom time. A friend of mine built a bunny play pen out of concrete 3 feet up and 2 feet below ground where she lets her rabbits out daily. She has a lot of "toys" such as culvert pipe for them to run through, things to chew, different substrates to dig through. Boy and girls separate. However, it is also a good place for breeding time. She has a lot of rabbits.

If kept as an inside pet, they readily use a litter pan and are easily trained by just placing their poop in it and sanitizing any area they used out of it. Rabbits chew. This is the biggest issue with letting them free range the house. Keep an eye out that they don't chew through wires, on furniture, or other items you don't want damaged. I had one that was loose in our family business and one day we lost the landline. Not good when you are running a business. Yep, Stanley had chewed through it. Also know that rabbits can be attention divas and if loose, they can be very demanding for pets and holding. They can be underfoot and tripping you as bad as any cat.

As with any animal, if your rabbit is not eating, lethargic or just "off," a trip to the vet is needed.

breeding

Silver fox are excellent mothers. Breeding age is 6 months or when full weight is achieved. The males can become fertile at 16 weeks, but may shoot blanks until 6 months. I have had them fertile at 4 months, so the kits need to be separated by sex before 16 weeks if you will not be butchering.

As with all rabbits, always bring the female to the male and NEVER the other way around. Female rabbits are highly territorial and will kill a male in her space. Providing a neutral cage or space is even better. I like a round pen where the doe can't get backed into a corner where the male can't reach her.

In general, bucks will go at a doe with lightening fast speed and freeze and fall off her to the side when he's done. Not all males do this, and not all the time, but it is the best indicator of a successful breeding. I try for 3 fall-offs before removing the doe. If I'm not sure of the success, the age of the male is young or he's inexperienced, or I'm just wanting to ensure success, then I will put them together again the next day for another breeding session.

Does can be bred up to four times a year. Gestation for silver fox is 31 days. A nest box with nesting materials of shredded paper, hay or straw, should be placed in with the doe 3 days prior to kindling [birth] date. On average, this breed kindles 6-8 kits.

butchering

As with most large breed meat rabbits, butchering is done at 16 weeks, with an average butcher weight of around 2.5 lbs.

Rabbits are one of the easiest, least space, least time, and least costly, meats you can raise. Butchering is straight forward and when experienced, it seriously takes just a couple minutes to complete a rabbit.

This is my favorite video on butchering rabbits. Graphic. Don't open if butchering is not your thing.

Skins can be salted and stored in the freezer for later processing. This is my favorite video on tanning hides. She also has a video on alum tanning.

final thoughts

There's a reason I've been a life long rabbit mom. They are quiet, easy on feed and care, sweet and fluffy pets, easily contained, and have few health problems. I have been very pleased with this silver fox breed. While I love my fluffy French angoras, they are WORK. These rabbits I pretty much just get to enjoy. I highly recommend the breed.

specs

Breed size: Large

Size F: 12 lbs.

Size M: 11 lbs.

Temperament: Exceptionally docile

Lifespan: 7-10 years

Uses: One of the best pet rabbits, show, fur, meat, commercial meat

Confirmation: Commercial, well-filled, straight hindquarters, short shoulders

Fur: Dense and unique short standing coat

Fur care: No special care required

Colors: Black common, and blue not common, chocolate, lilac and white rare, only black recognized for showing

Mothering; Excellent

Average offspring: 6-8

Feed: 70% hay; 30% mix of pellets, vegetables, fruit

Special dietary: None

Accessibility: One of the rarest breeds in the United States

Cost: Average $65 start and well over $100 for well pedigreed show quality

https://northernnester.com/silver-fox-rabbit/#:~:text=The%20average%20price%20for%20a,can%20influence%20the%20exact%20price.